Then I swish the print around in a container of I use a compressor tank butĬanned duster air works too. Pliers and spray the print down with compressed air. I grab a razor blade with needle nose pliers to get the prints to start Needle nose pliers to touch the uncured resin, so I rarely need to put on You can often avoid using them if you set up a neat cleaning procedure. I reuse lightly used paper towels and shop towels by setting them in the sunįor a few minutes to cure any resin they have on them. I use lots of paper towels and shop towels. Than water for cleaning the prints, I use Sprayway glass cleaner for cleaning the vat and build plate.Īnd I also use Mean Green for cleaning, which can also be used as a substituteįor isopropyl alcohol (IPA) for alcohol wash resins.
#N scale 3d print files crack
All I know is that it has worked well enough for me as long as the model is not hollow hollow prints eventually crack light has to be able to reach every surface for the final curing. I’ve only been using water washable resin ( Phrozen Water-Washable Rapid Resin Gray), so I can’t compare That they can cause floaters to break off into the resin until the settings are Issue with this technique is that the stl file used has some details so fine
Technique I used to figure out the best resin exposure settings for my printer. Printing objects directly to the build plate is often problematic due to the first several layers needing to be overexposed to assure the parts adhere to the build plate that translates into the parts being too thick (over-sized) the first few layers. Or 0.1 mm sheet down when printing with a layer height of 0.05. So, for instance, I like to put a 0.05 mm Plate easier when the print is done, and better assures nothing sticks to theįEP film instead of the build plate. It uses up very little resin, makes for more reliableĪdhesion for all the parts on the build plate, makes clearing off the build Use a 1 or 2 layer sheet file that fills up most of the build Stir up resin before starting a new print.
When going to use the stored resin vat again, I carefully You do not want resin on the screen, especially since it can leak down Not only assures no light starts curing the resin but keeps me from having toĮmpty/clean the vat it also eliminates any potential resin leaks onto the
#N scale 3d print files free
In their own tin containers which keeps them totally free of light. Leaving the leftover resin in the vat and storing the vat and the build plate In use but I know I’ll be using the machine again in a few days I’ve been
The garage door is open plenty of light can get in. I have my printer set up in my garage and that means when Also I give the FEP film aĬoat of 3in1 PTFE lubricant whenever I clean out the With the vat on the machine instead of using paper. Printing out an angled back in PLA plastic using my FDM 3D printer.Īnyway here is everything I’ve learned so far. The only thing I really don’t like about the Phrozen Sonic Mini so far is theįlat-backed build plate which is messy. I considered all of those models before settling on the Phrozen Sonic Mini. There are other proven models that are good too with higher resolution screensīut slower print times, like the Elegoo Mars Screen leading to faster prints is why I went with the Phrozen Sonic Mini. Resin, and mono screens for faster printing. Together that made me finally take the plunge: cheaper prices, water-washable I recently finally bit the bullet and got a resin 3D
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